I’m still busy finding a method to make the sliding windows water tight but in the meantime all fixed windows have been removed and have been re-installed
The first thing done to remove the windows, which were still as it looked to me fitted with their original white plastic stapled window cord.
Which that at one point I presume due to water leakage was tried to top with silicone.
As can be seen from the next pictures this did not stop the water ingress since the window is discolored with algae.
The pictures used for this blog have been taken from different fixed windows’.
The next steps was to clean the wood where the window fits in and remove all earlier applied varnish and protect the wood with two component epoxy two layers.
The first window I made the mistake, created a lot of extra work for myself by not properly placing tape on all areas where one does not want to have silicone.
For the first window installed I only taped the wood and nothing else, this was the mistake since it was impossible to get straight lines of silicone following the rims of the wood inside and outside.
After the first window installation I did follow the following steps.
Placing tape on the wood on the outside following the window frame taking time also to follow the round curves/corners of the wood.
Than the inside window frame was covered with tape although it is a small rim by not taping this piece of wood one has to clean the silicone of the wood while it is still wet, messy job or clean the silicone from the wood when it is dry with the chance of damaging the wood and the coating as well as scratching the window glass.
Than the window glass was placed into the window frame making sure that there was space between the glass and the wood for expansion/shrinking of the wood around the glass.
When the glass was in the correct position the glass was taped on the outside following the wooden rim on the inside this was when the silicone will be applied one will never look against silicone from the inside to outside.
Also take was placed on the inside of the window against the wood rim.
Then when all was taped and degreased with acetone wooden window frame and the actual glass the fun part starts actual installation.
A small layer of silicone is placed onto the wooden window frame where the glass will be fitted in, the amount must be such that when one pushed the glass into the silicone that between the glass and the wooden frame, inside, 100 % coverage is, in short everywhere between the glass and the wood silicone needs to come out.
When I was satisfied about the above, one or two windows I needed to remove due to not adding enough silicone, the silicone on the outside was installed.
To get a nice finish I used a plastic tool designed for this job.
When the silicone looks nice the area looks like the following picture.
Next is to remove the tape inside as well as outside to get a nice straight line of the silicone this needs to be done carefully by perverting to touch the silicone which needs to remain in place.
The tape is removed when the silicon is still wet to make sure that when the silicone dries it sticks to the window and the wood. When the tape is removed when the silicone is dry, this is possible without extra effort, I have noticed that there is a chance that where the silicone overlapped the tape that a minor gap is visible between the glass and the silicone.
I waited than 1 or 2 days and the excess of silicone on the window was removed with a razor blade being careful for not touching the actual silicone which holds the window in place.
I did had some challenges with the front and rear windows.
The main reason was the new wood installed at the bottom window frames although this was done carefully the window glass did not fit 100% in the wooden frame.
Although the next picture looks not professional by placing some wood and a strap over the window I was able to get a tight fit between the glass and the wooden window frame.
Letting the silicone dry for over 2 days a then removing the pressure from the glass resulted that the glass stayed in place and was well glued with the silicone against the window frame.
For the aft windows I used some nails by placing them against the glass I got a tight fit between the glass and the window frame.
Two days drying time and I removed the nails, the area without silicone was degreased again and a bit cut from the already installed silicone and fresh silicone was applied where the nails were installed.
The question is why I used black silicone instead of white which was original installed for holding the glass in place.
Main reason white window glass silicone is not UV protected resulting in discoloring to yellow as well as deteriorating over time.
Further I think the black silicone does not look too bad against the mahogany and the black color comes back in the deck caulking.
See also next picture.