Sunday, September 16, 2018

Into the water

It took some time after before the boat went into the water , I had the impression that most of the planks were closed and minimum gaps were left in the boat by June.
The hot summer after June did not help as planks below and above the water line were opening again.

Another issue was to find a suitable name for the boat, since the boat originates from Sweden we came up with the name Lycka, which means luck and still sound lie a ladies name for us Dutch.

Eventually I waited till the end of August till the board was put into the water.
The height of the tent which served me over the last few years of restoration was just high enough that the boat could be moved out with a boat lift, without taking the whole construction down.

It is always a kind of scary moment when the boat hits the water after being so long on land and have been totally dried out.

But the good news was that it floated directly with a minimum of water ingress between some planks.
This was the first day.

The first 24 hours about 7 liters of water entered the boat actually it would have been more expected if I did not seal some of the hairline openings between some planks, where water was coming through, on places where one would not expect this.
Did a test run with the boat the next day to make sure that there were no issues with the engines steering etc. before the boat would be sailed over from the wharf to the maria and the food news was that boat sailed as expected and no extra water did enter.

Few days later the boat was sailed from the wharf to the marina where the boat will be for the summer and winter season.
The marina is at the big lake in the middle of Holland and the wharf is at one of the canals so we needed to go through locks with a height difference of about 18 feet.

From there over the lake to the marina.

After sailing over all did look good with minimum extra leaking of water into the boat, but I think the sailing and movement did some settlement of the boat and the next day we had far more water in the boat even up to almost 30 liters in one day.
Most of this water came through the blocks, Port and starboard, where the propeller shafts supports are mounted onto.
These gaps were closed with the Ettan grease and this stopped the large ingress of the water.
After about two weeks the water ingress is decreased to around 2 liters per 24 hours , which shows that it takes longer then one hopes that a wooden boat will get water tight, all gaps between planks 100% closed.

Below some pictures of the boat at the Marina.

Since the sea trial was done without major issues we decided to make it official and the boat was christened with some champagne which pored over the bow for good luck.

In a later stage I will follow up with additional blogs with regards to work performed on the boat as well as with pictures of the finished inside.
Not only the inside was restored but also new beds new siting cushions as well as a new tent was made.
The tent and cushion where made by my neighbor Jan who can do miracles with a sawing machine.

Friday, June 29, 2018

Getting Wet

                                                       Getting Wet

The goal for 2018 is to get the boat in the water.
This might always looks simpler then it actually is, lots of loose ends to be completed which normally always takes longer then one expect.
All wood needs to be sanded from the deck housing and treated again with Owatrol D-2 and in some placed D-1 and D-2.
Deck needs to be washed and checked for any spots which ended-onto the deck by completing other tasks as well as the caulking needs to be checked for agian.
But the biggest challenge is of course when the boat get's wet.
The complete hull has been cleaned inside and protected again with linseed oil and the bilge has been painted.
The planks have dried out over the years and there are big gaps between them, enough to get concerned when the boat get's into the water and how do I keep it afloat.
When the boat does get in this condition in the water it will fill up rather quickly with water resulting that a reasonable pump is required to prevent the boat from sinking.
The risk is that there will be a power outage, pump failure and resulting that the boat still might sink .
Not a pleasant though after all these years of getting it ready.
Thinking outside the box, I decided to fill up the boat with water before I will put it into the water, this way I was hoping that the planks would close again.
Well I was partly successful lots of water poured into the boat which ran out overnight again.
Did this a few times but the gaps would hardly close.
I was then informed about a product called Ettan Grease used by wooden boat builders, it claims that it sticks to anything, indeed it did, difficult to remove from your hands, product is water resistant.

It is  a greasy product which smells like tar , old wooden boat smell, not unpleasant.

The good thing of this product that it can be rather easy pushed between the planks, if the weather is not to cold .
Well after putting this Ettan Grease  between the planks I filled up the boat again, and to my pleasant surprise only some drips of water came out which could be easily closed with some additional Ettan Grease.
Over the time a week to several weeks I could see that the gaps between the planks were closing.

The Ettan grease was pushed out between the planks and could be scraped off the bottom.
It total took around 4 months till all gaps were closed and no water came out of the bottom anymore.
It took the longest time for the hull shaft penetrations to close which can be expected due to the way this penetration is build up from different types of wood in different layers.

Wednesday, April 25, 2018

Chain Locker

                                                               Chain Locker

This is a fancy word for a box, anchor bin, where the anchor chain and rope will be stored in.
The Storebro is not outfitted with a anchor bin for storing the anchor chain.
When I cleaned the the bottom of the boat out I found a lot of sand and dirt which could potentially block the bilge pumps.
Originally the anchor chain just was dropped in the forward part of the forward cabin ending in the bilge of the boat.
Since I did not think this was a good idea and also to keep the bilge clean  I decided to build a anchor bin which can hold the anchor chain .
The box was made from water resistant multiplex and inside coated with two component epoxy paint , several layers.

The anchor bin was build in such a way that it had sloped walls to guide the chain to the bottom as well as a hatch was made to be able to check and clean the anchor bin.
Two drains were added to be able to drain the water which might enter the anchor bin.

The Anchor bin had to be installed before the forward bulkhead could be fitted , the unit would not fit through the doors. The Anchor bin is connected to the deck beams with special wood thread bolts.
Although not seen on this picture some additional supports have been added to the bottom of the Anchor bin.

The forward bulkhead was temporarily installed to check if the anchor bin could be reached from the forward cabin for cleaning and inspection.

After installation of the anchor bin the position was decided where the anchor chain could go through the deck. Although originally this entrance is slightly to starboard side from the center line I decided to place the entrance in the center line,

To protect the wood of the deck and sub deck from water ingress the hole for the anchor chain was protected with glass-fiber cloth and epoxy 

When finished the deck was de-greased and the wood support for the hawse pipe.

I decided not to place the hawse pipe directly on deck as original but to place it on a wooden support to bring the hawse pipe slightly above the deck this way preventing water entering the anchor bin during a normal rain storm. Further it has now the same installation as the escape hatch on the forward deck 

As usual the wood was screwed temporarily in place and then the deck and wood were taped to prevent that caulking would go over the wood which would result in extra cleaning.

Wooden support was removed and the holes for the screws filled with caulking to prevent water ingress which could result in starting to rot the deck while one will not notice this.

Excess of caulking was removed when the wood was screwed in place and at the same time all tape was removed as well.

The next step was to install the Hawse pipe, which is original and has been re-chromed.

The screws seen in the pictures will be shortened when I will install a stainless steel chain to keep the cap of the Hawse pipe near the deck penetration.


Monday, April 23, 2018

Propeller Polishing

                                                    Propeller polishing.

Although a lot of stories from individuals can be found on the internet is not touch the propellers
and especially do not clean or polish them.
One of the explanations is that the propeller can get in unbalance and that it will create damage
to the bearings.
Well in case of the Storebro there are no bearings involved in the propeller shaft except the outer bearing which is lubricated by the surrounding water further it is a free shaft which is connected
by a semi flexible coupling to the engine.
Important is of course that the propeller shaft is in line with the outgoing engine shaft.
A smooth and polished propeller can reduce your fuel cost with 3 to 5 %, and with the
old engines I have every liter/gallon is one.
Further a propeller with oxidation creates a rough surface, which not only can create cavitation
 but also extra noise.
Therefore the decision was taken to clean and polish the propellers.

Although difficult to see from attached picture the surface of the propeller is very rough.

The tools I used for cleaning and polishing the blades is not a metal wire brush or sand paper since I do not want to remove any of the metal of the propeller just the oxidation.

I used for this cleaning nylon brushes which do remove very slowly the oxidation, this is a slow process and takes time but it does remove what needs to be removed in my opinion..

As can be seen from the below picture the propeller is cleaned but still a discoloring can be seen which indicates that I have not polished till the bear metal but just removed the oxidation.

The below picture shows in better detail that the blades are clean and smooth but still some surface roughness can be seen, to remove this one needs to use sand paper or another mechanical means to remove this , which will result in removing metal, what I do not want to do.

At the same time I cleaned the rudders from oxidation no specific reason 
but it looks nice for the picture.

Finished product of two cleaned propellers and rudders.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Outside Roofs

June 2017

                                                      Repainting the outside roofs

I was under the impression that a light sanding and putting a new layer of epoxy paint would be sufficient on the fiber glass roofs of the main cabin and the steering cabin.
Unfortunately i found out that over the years in my opinion incorrect paint was used for the polyester roofs of the boat, which resulted that I needed to sand the complete roofs till reached the polyester.

One of the first things was t o remove the hand rails on top of the roofs, since I was alone and the  threaded rod with nut was going through the roof of the main cabin I used a small trick  by taping a screw driver to the round holding bar and unscrew the nut from the inside.

With the hand rails removed which were as it looked at the beginning in a bad state, I was able to sand the complete roof.

The handrails were sanded, were painted as well, and after the sanding the the round bars and the support blocks on the roof were actually in a good state no rot nor really damaged. So instead of making new ones I covered them in Owatrol D-1 and D-2 oil as future protection against the weather.
The roof was sanded holes and deep scratches were filled with epoxy filler and and painted with two component epoxy paint and afterwards sanded and polished to get a smooth surface .

The next step was to place the painted handrails back onto the roof.
The support blocks for the round handrail were placed onto the roof in silicone kit, seal and glue to prevent that there will be water ingress along the bolts where the handrails are mounted onto the roof.

This boat the mast is not placed on top of the steering cabin but on top of the main cabin. A new connecting piece was made for the power supply to the horn, and lights in the mast.

Finished roof with an opening for the ventilation in the forward sleeping cabin, fan not installed yet on this picture.

Next roof was the roof of the steering cabin same procedure was followed with paint removing closing the holes and scratches with with epoxy filler and then sanding and painting with two component epoxy paint.

Hand rails were removed as well and in his case new support blocks were made for the round hand rail since they were in a bad state, the blocks were made from mahogany. All was protected againa with Owatrol D-1 and D-2.

Finished roof

The roof for the aft cabin was completely cleaned and stripped from paint with a paint softener but this was a kind of challenging since it does not have a smooth surface.For the sides of this roof which are smooth the same procedure was followed as with the other roofs only here lots of more holes to be closed.
It was then painted with the earlier mentioned paint a thin layer as possible to keep the fish grate in the aft deck clearly visible.

The next step was to reinstall the railing poles again with the refurbished hand rails and the re-chromed hardware like corner pieces and hinges.

After the railings were placed, forgot to mark the position of the poles, so it took some time to figure out where each railing pole it's position was. When all was in place the plastic wind breakers were reattached to the railing poles.

Last picture shows the completed installation onto the aft deck.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Renewed Floor Steering Cabin

June 2017

                                                          Floor Steering Cabin

The floor of the steering cabin looked from the beginning not up to my expectations as well as that some of the wood was damaged and a part was rotten in the corner of the deck drain.
I had some teak left over from the installation of the teak deck as well as some Birch for placing between the teak planks.
As can be seen from the next picture the repairs to the boat also did not add positive to the condition of the floor.

First step was to remove the wood placed on top of the ply wood which was the original floor of the steering cabin.
This wood small pieces was glued onto the ply wood and while removing it some of the plywood was damaged as well while some other parts cam off very easy.

The wood was removed hatch per hatch, at the same time inspecting the conditions of the hatches, good news was that the plywood and the rest of the construction of the hatches were in a good condition, most likely due to the position in the boat, above the engine room, warm and dry.

Eventually the whole floor looked like a plywood floor, interesting concept for a floor in a boat.
When all the wood was removed and the wood on the site of the hatches it was noticed that there were screw holes in the hatches which gives me the impression that the original floor has been one with rubber mats and brass rims around the hatches.
One of the reasons that the wood was removed on the site of the hatches was that the hatches did not line up which I did not like and wanted to improve. As can be seen from the next picture with the  removed wooden strips on the site of the hatches rather large gaps were created,                               

New Hardwood strip were glued onto the hatches and the hatches were modified as much as possible to get better lines in the floor of the hatched when installed. As can be seen from the next picture some of the hatches were not cut straight resulting that they needed to be modified. Left hatch with the new rims on the side while the right hatch did still have the old rim.

Next picture as well shows the difference in the hatches between length and width where they should have been exactly the same.
Right hand bottom corner with the new strip on the side of the hatch.

The first step in the finishing of the hatches with new teak was to install on all hatches the wooden piece on the side of the hatches while aiming that all lines would match up, more or less t\hatches of the same seize having the same outside diameter.

The following step was to cut the teak on the right length as well as the birch pieces between the teak. all was installed dry to find a way that at the end all lines would match up in the floor, except of the small hatch in front of the doors of the aft cabin, since this would make the teak on this small hatch look strange due to a few very small pieces of teak.

The plywood hatch was covered in epoxy glue which was colored close to the color of the teak, this to make sure that if the glue was coming out between the planks that it would not stick out as white epoxy glue. The teak planks and birch strips were placed in the exact same as dry fitted and laid next to the epoxy covered hatch to make sure that they would be fitted in the same position as dry fitted.

The hatch was covered with 100% epoxy with a toothed cam to make sure that the teak planks could be pushed into the glue as well as that with a toothed cam an equal layer of glue is applied

First two hatches finished and as can be seen some colored glue has been added on top to close any gaps if they are between the teak and the birch strips. This is not an issue since the hatches needed to be sanded to end up with a flush floor, Teak planks were made with the help of a circular saw and were not all exactly the same thickness. Although not easy to notice from the below picture the new hard wood trim pieces on the side of the hatches were kept higher than the actual thickness of the glue and the teak planks, this to come to a smooth hatch in the end.

Some of the planks needed to get cut in the length to be able to fit as closing plank on a hatch.
To make sure that the closing plank would have a tight fit the other planks were put in position with small pegs to push them hard against each other and the rims of the hatch.

Then the plank which needed to be cut in the length was marked with a sharp pencil where it needed to be cut, as can be seen two strokes of birch were placed to make sure that the correct with of the plank would remain after the cutting of the plank.

Slowly and diligent continuing the installation of the teak planks the floor started to show the way I wanted to have it as an end product, this type of work requires quite some time and one should not expect that this type of work is completed in a day or two.

 Eventually the whole floor was completed and sanded flush not only each hatch but also between the hatches themselves . As can be seen although not 100% perfect the lines between the hatches do line up much better than before I started with this upgrade.

After the sanding and cleaning the hatches were not varnished but covered in several layers with oil , in my case I used Owatrol Deks D-1, not D-2 since this will make the deck slippery when wet
As can be seen a the teak directly does get its color after applying a single layer.

After the floor was in one layer of oil the hatches were finished with installing the rings for lifting them, also here time was taken to place them in such a way that the hatch could be lifted at one side in the middle while ate the other side they would line up.

In the end the deck in the steering cabin looked as one would expect from an old wooden classic boat, 

The one thing left was to place sound insulation at the inside of the hatches , I placed not only sound insulation but also sound absorption.