.JPG)
During the reconstruction of the boat it was noticed that steering was rather heavy.
Checking the route of the steering cables nothing out of the ordinary could be found.
The steering cables were as good as possible cleaned lubricated etc. in the expectations that over time the steering would become more easier.
It was also during the construction period checked if the actual steering unit connected to the steering wheel could be taken apart but this looked not that easy as one would expect and was left as it is at that time.
While sailing with the boat it was noticed that there was no improvement in steering the boat, no real issues to keep the boat on track but the actual steering was still rather heavy and not that easy while maneuvering, although this could be compensated with both engines.
Since I was not satisfied with the situation it was checked if there would be anything incorrect with the rudders, cables were removed from the rudder arms but there was no improvement in rotating the steering wheel. Rudders could be moved freely.
Next step was to take the steering unit apart but unfortunately I was not able to do so.
Removing all bolts and nuts was no issue but splitting the actual unit to reach the cables was not possible, without most likely damaging the unit.
I expect that the reason for not being able to open the unit is not only the age of the system but the cotter pins installed in the unit, see below pictures.
With this issue it was decided to look into a new steering unit with new cables, going through the internet for additional information and cost it was clear to me that there was not a lot of price difference between the cable system, complete unit and a hydraulic steering system.
It was then decided to switch from cable steering to hydraulic steering.
The original cable steering was removed and looking at the inner cable in the outer cable I could see that all was rusted, this was also mentioned on the internet in several websites that when the steering becomes heavy most likely the cables are rusted and that there is a great chance of a cable failure.
After the old steering unit and cables were removed the new hydraulic steering was installed.
Cabinet in the aft cabin was removed and position of the new plunger was checked that it would fit within the space available.
At this point I made a mistake, by counting the revolutions of the steering wheel hard starboard to hard port and comparing this to the instruction manual of he new steering unit, both were about the same amount of turns from hard port to hard starboard.
Therefore I was under the impression that I could use the same connection as where the original cables were connected.
A new support frame was made to fit the plunger and all looked as it would fit and work without any issues.
Reading the instruction manual more precise I noticed that instead of 35° rudder port and starboard I most likely would reach half of that steering angle.
New plan was made and the complete steering angle was drawn on carton and measured from the center line of the rudder stock with the information available in the instruction manual.
It became then clear that the original connection for the steering unit would not be the correct position of the connection to the hydraulic plunger.
A new hole was made in the rudder arm for the connection to the plunger.
From below picture it can be clearly seen the plunger stroke for full rudder movement between 35° port to starboard, Red line new position of the plunger stroke for full rudder movement.
Blue line if the plunger would be connected to the original position of the rudder arm.
This new position of the plunger resulted that a new hole needed to be made in the rudder arm, since this is brass it can be done without removing the rudder arm from the rudder, in my case this would not be possible since the boat is in the water.
Not only I made a new hole but I threaded the hole this to make sure that when the plunger would be connected that the rudder arm that it would have the less chance to get loose even under vibrations.
The hydraulic plunger was connected with a bolt and locking nut.
A new support was made for the plunger position and all was put in place before finally mounted.
An additional check was made to make sure that with the plunger stroke full rudder movement was possible.
Hydraulic hoses were ran between the steering pump and the plunger and all was mounted in place.
The hydraulic hoses were both kept at the same length this to prevent any steering delays between moving from port to starboard. Actual length of hydraulic hoses used was 7.5 meter per hose.
For filling the system with hydraulic oil and venting the air out of the system one needs to follow the instructions of the manufacturer.
As can be seen the steering unit does not look that bad on the whole steering stand.
An issue was that the original steering wheel did not fit on the new steering unit.
The original steering wheel has a straight shaft while the new steering unit has a conical shaft, I have considered several option to make it "work" but in the end I ended up with buying a new steering wheel which is actually almost the same as the original one.
As can be seen from above pictures I moved the steering unit slightly up since I'm a tall person, but still there is enough clearance between the steering wheel and the steering stand.
Below old and new
