I’m still busy finding a method to make the sliding windows
water tight but in the meantime all fixed windows have been removed and have
been re-installed
The first thing done to remove the windows, which were still
as it looked to me fitted with their original white plastic stapled window
cord.
Which that at one point I presume due to water leakage was
tried to top with silicone.
As can be seen from the next pictures this did not stop the
water ingress since the window is discolored with algae.
The pictures used for this blog have been taken from
different fixed windows’.
The next steps was to clean the wood where the window fits
in and remove all earlier applied varnish and protect the wood with two
component epoxy two layers.
The first window I made the mistake, created a lot of extra
work for myself by not properly placing tape on all areas where one does not
want to have silicone.
For the first window installed I only taped the wood and
nothing else, this was the mistake since it was impossible to get straight
lines of silicone following the rims of the wood inside and outside.
After the first window installation I did follow the
following steps.
Placing tape on the wood on the outside following the window
frame taking time also to follow the round curves/corners of the wood.
Than the inside window frame was covered with tape although it
is a small rim by not taping this piece of wood one has to clean the silicone
of the wood while it is still wet, messy job or clean the silicone from the
wood when it is dry with the chance of damaging the wood and the coating as
well as scratching the window glass.
Than the window glass was placed into the window frame
making sure that there was space between the glass and the wood for
expansion/shrinking of the wood around the glass.
When the glass was in the correct position the glass was
taped on the outside following the wooden rim on the inside this was when the silicone
will be applied one will never look against silicone from the inside to
outside.
Also take was placed on the inside of the window against the
wood rim.
Then when all was taped and degreased with acetone wooden
window frame and the actual glass the fun part starts actual installation.
A small layer of silicone is placed onto the wooden window
frame where the glass will be fitted in, the amount must be such that when one
pushed the glass into the silicone that between the glass and the wooden frame,
inside, 100 % coverage is, in short everywhere between the glass and the wood
silicone needs to come out.
When I was satisfied about the above, one or two windows I
needed to remove due to not adding enough silicone, the silicone on the outside was installed.
To get a nice finish I used a plastic tool designed for this
job.
When the silicone looks nice the area looks like the
following picture.
Next is to remove the tape inside as well as outside to get
a nice straight line of the silicone this needs to be done carefully by perverting
to touch the silicone which needs to remain in place.
The tape is removed when the silicon is still wet to make sure that when the silicone dries it sticks to the window and the wood. When the tape is removed when the silicone is dry, this is possible without extra effort, I have noticed that there is a chance that where the silicone overlapped the tape that a minor gap is visible between the glass and the silicone.
I waited than 1 or 2 days and the excess of silicone on the
window was removed with a razor blade being careful for not touching the actual
silicone which holds the window in place.
I did had some challenges with the front and rear windows.
The main reason was the new wood installed at the bottom
window frames although this was done carefully the window glass did not fit
100% in the wooden frame.
Although the next picture looks not professional by placing
some wood and a strap over the window I was able to get a tight fit between the
glass and the wooden window frame.
Letting the silicone dry for over 2 days a then removing the
pressure from the glass resulted that the glass stayed in place and was well
glued with the silicone against the window frame.
For the aft windows I used some nails by placing them
against the glass I got a tight fit between the glass and the window frame.
Two days drying time and I removed the nails, the area
without silicone was degreased again and a bit cut from the already installed
silicone and fresh silicone was applied where the nails were installed.
The question is why I used black silicone instead of white
which was original installed for holding the glass in place.
Main reason white window glass silicone is not UV protected
resulting in discoloring to yellow as well as deteriorating over time.
Further I think the black silicone does not look too bad
against the mahogany and the black color comes back in the deck caulking.
See also next picture.
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